Probably not worth the drive all the way out here just for the Bluff, but if you are driving past then stop and climb on up. The views from the top are pretty incredible.
I know, I know...Why would I go to a stupid Fort? This was actually very interesting and educational. This was a starting point for us in learning about the history of the American take over of the land from the Native Americans (tragic). If you take the time to visit all the forts and National Cemeteries in a multi-state region up here (I know, easier said than done), then you can really piece together the history and see the movement of battles, forts, and conquest in the area. It's worth it if you are a history nerd.
Okay, so you drive by this place on the highway and you think its going to be a state park or government access situation. You get to the end of a dirt road and there is a house with some shady road blocks. You go in and it is pretty dingy, looks like a straight tourist trap and the lady behind the counter says that for $20 a person and the signing of a liability release form, you can go play on the glacier. We went in and left the first time we drove by, but on the way back to Anchorage we decided to do it. And I'm so glad we did. You pay, sign, and drive another mile or two up the road and park in a gravel lot. You think walk over metal grates, plywood, 2 x4's and around yellow cones up the the edge of the glacier. There are signs everywhere warning you that you are entering at your own risk. And you sure are. You can then step off of solid ground and you have yourself out on a glacier. With cracks, melting water, crevasses, caves, and calving ice. You need cramp-ons if you are really going to go up and explore. There were some tours that had people with ice-picks and climbing gear walking by. The army was even there doing a training exercise carrying people up and down the glacier. This is a wild glacier. Get out there and explore!
So you are driving for hours with nothing to see or do, and you come up on the intersection that has a gas station, a biker bar, and a Thai Food Truck. After having been camping in subfreezing temperature and eating nothing but canned soup and hot dogs, this was a God send. It was reasonably priced, hot, fresh, and not canned soup. Awesome.
Hands down one of the biggest highlights of our trip. There is excellent fishing in Tangle Lakes (lots of trout and grayling). If you come at the right time, you can catch the caribou migration. There is NO ONE AND NOTHING for tens and tens of miles, so come prepared. This is out on the tundra so the landscape is such that you can just walk right out and explore everything. There are a limited number of trails which hunters are routinely using, so be careful and wear bright colors. There is an abundance of natural berries on the hills - and lots of moose nibbling! You can go collecting and have yourself a wonderful snack! Such a blast!
There are not that many glaciers that you can just walk right up to. This is a phenomenal experience. Come prepared with some water and know what routes are available. There is a pretty easy walk up to the glacier, but for just a few more miles up, you can go all the way to the edge of the Harding Ice Field. We got there too late in the day to complete that loop (which we TOTALLY regret). If you look for a little side path in the wash-out basin you can climb around the side if the water is low and make it to the terminus of the glacier. Totally awesome.
The best way to see the Fjords is from a boat. There are several companies that run from Seward that offer a variety of tour lengths and types. We opted for a day trip run by Kenai Fjords Tours. The tour guide was a National Parks Ranger and was INCREDIBLY knowledgeable about the park, history, animals, and landscape. He chased whales, porpoises, and otters all over the park. We saw Bald Eagles, falcons, hawks, puffins....it was an incredible day. Not to mention, we got to see a glacier calving into the bay! The cruise was comfortable, reasonably priced, and truly beautiful. This is a wonderful park! Would definitely come back!
This park is so vast that even in the dead of summer there is not a lot to do if you are not prepared to seriously pack it in or fly it in. The views from the highway are gorgeous and definitely worth a detour if you are in the area, but short of this, you need weeks to really get in there.
You will get lost for hours here. It is cheap as well: $5 got the two of us over an hour of joy.
Most of the travel books we read claim this as the best beach in the city. It is windy. Constantly. And it's cold. Bring a jacket, hat, and gloves if you plan on watching the sunset at the beach (which you want to do). The sun sets for the classic "post card shot" of the Golden Gate Bridge.