Barrio

It goes without saying that taquerias tend to be modest establishments — if you can call them "establishments" at all — characterized by steam tables, linoleum floors, and flickering fluorescent lights. Barrio, in stark contrast, exists in the former home of the once-posh 806 Wine and Martini Bar. It's an odd fit to be sure, but one that matters less and less with each passing margarita. What I like most about Barrio is that they kept things blissfully simple. The house motto should be, "Relax, it's just tacos." And just tacos it is: Other than a handful of starters and sides — and a landslide of tequilas and margaritas — the menu is devoted entirely to tacos. Fillings too are wisely restrained, limited to just seven, unlike the short-lived Roseangel that complicated matters with nearly 20.