No 7

Steps from the Lafayette subway exit, this American bistro has the feel of an old train station lounge. The marble-topped bar up front sits beneath a vaulted ceiling lit with Edison bulbs. In back, a tight semicircle of banquettes surrounds seating for 40. In between, Perry St. alum chef Tyler Kord turns out a short list of ambitious dishes from a tiny kitchen open to the peering eyes of the chic neighborhood crowd. Four appetizers and four entrees provide just enough choices to please most tastes. Soft chunks of beef tenderloin arrive simply over a hearty portion of braised cabbage. Seafood dishes are a bit more eclectic and creative; a curry-like puree of split peas pools under sautéed scallops, and the breaded cauliflower paired with poached cod could almost pass for hash browns. The true highlight, however, is the soft-boiled, then fried egg appetizer, a perfect marriage of buttery crunch and gooey moisture.