Fedora

Restaurateur Gabriel Stulman (Joseph Leonard, Jeffrey’s Grocery) expands his West Village mini-empire with this clubby French-Canadian knockout, the most chef-focused of any of his ventures. Au Pied de Cochon vet Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly produces some of the most exciting toe-to-tongue cooking in town, plying epicurean hipsters with Quebecois party food that’s eccentric, excessive and fun. Feast on crispy octopus with brown-buttered sweetbreads—an inspired take on surf and turf—and a monster double-thick pork chop for two, or grab a stool at the bar for a killer steak sandwich and an old-fashioned, polished up with pecan bitters.