Gippsland Discovery: Sale to the Tarra Valley

But don’t get too comfy, because the first stop is just 10km down the road. While we realise that’s barely enough time to get the engine warm, Victoria’s first movable bridge – which goes way back to 1883 – is 100% worth a premature pitstop.

During its heyday the Sale Swing Bridge would open up to 20 times daily to let through steamers moving along the Latrobe River between Melbourne and Sale, but these days you’ll need to time it just right to see the wrought-iron beauty in action. Except of course for the months-long hiatus of 2017 when the bridge didn’t operate at all (thanks to a vandalised gear mechanism that ended up causing $160k in damage – ouch!), it can now be seen swinging open at 3pm on weekends, and 11am on the second Wednesday of the month. Or if you’re running late, catch it closing one hour later.

Now, geeking out on bridge engineering is one thing, but if you’re an Australian film buff you’ll also get the added satisfaction of seeing the setting of Hugo Weaving and Rose Byrne’s 2008 movie The Tender Hook in real life. Bonus!

A Gippsland trip wouldn’t be complete without seeing an example of the salt lakes the region is renowned for, and in these parts Jack Smith Lake in Gunaikurnai country is just the ticket. Binoculars are a must, because the coastal lagoons, grassy plains and salt marshes here are alive with feeding and nesting waterbirds.

If the day is waning you can bush camp here amongst native grassland and banksias, and it’s certainly worth stretching out your stay if you’re keen for some surf fishing along Ninety Mile Beach, or duck hunting (in season only) at the Jack Smith Lake State Game Reserve.

We’re back on A440, but not for long because a tipple at Tom’s Cap Vineyard, lodged up in the hills of Central Gippsland, is oh-so detour-worthy. The property sits within cooee of the Strzelecki Ranges and Tarra Bulga National Park, but it’s a real charmer in its own right, with 100 acres of paddocks, a 20 acre stand of blue gums and, importantly, seven acres of grapevines. You could explore much of Wellington Shire with Toms Cap as your base, and there’s four exclusive cottages onsite to let you do just that.

Like the proverbial skinned cat, there’s a number of ways to make your back south towards historic Port Albert, and if you’re keen on railway history you can customise the trip from here to take in some of the abandoned stations that were once linked by the now largely disused South Gippsland line.

If you’re approaching via Old Sale Road, on the other hand, take a few minutes to snap a photo of the early wooden Church of England, a blue and white Gothic Revival that has single-handedly put the town of Tarraville on the map. Built in 1856, records state it’s the second oldest wooden building in Victoria, and likely Gippsland’s first church, but it’s the rarity of its “nail-free” drop slab construction that makes the building especially notable.

As Victoria’s first established port and the gateway to Gippsland, it’d be folly not to visit the Maritime Museum while exploring Port Albert, which was first discovered in 1841 almost simultaneously by survivors of the Clonmel wreck on Ninety Mile Beach, and explorer Angus McMillan.

The 1861 heritage-listed Bank of Victoria houses the museum’s exhibits, which include significant artefacts, documents and photographs tracing a pioneer history shaped by Victoria’s gold rush. Outside, the grounds showcase a range of nautical objects such as fishing boats and anchors.

With the history lesson fresh in your mind, follow the Old Port trail to reach the site of the town’s first settlement. At about 6km each way, it’s a great half-day walk with an easy-going gravel track to lead you through the coastal heath. Salt marsh, mangroves and views over Corner Inlet and McMillan Bay are just some of the highlights.

Of course you can’t leave without also exploring “new” Port Albert on foot as well, and by “new” we mean a town with at least 40 Georgian and Victorian-style buildings still standing. There are dining and accommodation options aplenty so you can rest up and fuel up before pushing on.

As you depart Port Albert, you’ll be itching for the stunning Tarra Valley, but getting there requires passing through Yarram, and it’s well worth carving out some time to stock up on supplies so you’re all set for the camping opportunities that await. While you’re here, wander around the Yarram Courthouse Gallery, a community-run art space that showcases local and regional talent. The info centre and gift shop share the old courthouse building so you can glean some local knowledge about the area and hot tips on other things to do.

And so begins the beautiful drive up into the ranges along the fern-lined Tarra Valley Road, providing a taste of what’s ahead. If you’re looking for a spot to base yourself and pooch for a couple of days while you explore the Strzelecki Ranges, be sure to book your stay at Best Friend Holiday Retreat, a caravan park that operates exclusively for travellers with dogs. The park has doggy daycare services onsite, so you can day trip to pet-unfriendly areas in the nearby national park knowing your furbaby is in good hands – how’s that for pet friendly?

For everyone else travelling without a pooch, Tarra Valley Caravan Park is your spot. Located just 19km northwest of Yarram, the park’s rustic self-contained cabins, caravan sites and campsites share a lush pocket of rainforest with an abundance of birds and wildlife. The Tarra River runs beside the park (score a waterside campsite if you can!) allowing for some terrific trout, blackfish and freshwater cray fishing. And the best bit? Access to Tarra Bulga, one of Victoria’s most spectacular and least visited national parks, is just up the road.

Prepare to be amazed as you start exploring Gippsland’s hidden world of green. Tarra Bulga National Park protects a rare type of cool temperate rainforest found only in Australia, South America and New Zealand, comprised of plant species whose descendents go back to Gondwanan days. The only way to appreciate the park’s sheltered gullies and forest-lined slopes is on foot, and there’s about 66km worth of trails to keep you happy.

Many of the trails keep to the forest floor, showcasing an intricate understorey of ferns, moss, lichen and at the right time of year, a bloom of colourful fungi. But Corrigan Suspension Bridge is the photo opp you don’t want to miss, as it takes you high up above the canopy and into the mist. Plus it’s only a short 25 minute walk via the Lyrebird Ridge, Ash and Wills Tracks, so you get a lot of bang for not a lot of puff.